Two “peas” Two “pods”

  I’m working two young dogs

and even though they are half-brothers --- They couldn’t be more different if they tried. Both are talented and totally enjoyable to work but so very different - in personality and working style. I have to remind myself to change my method and attitude with each of them. If I tried to work them both the same – neither would progress as they should.

 

 

TECH:

One is a big, long legged, easy going male. He tends to be independent with a mind of his own. When we go to the sheep he’s always trying to get to them before I send him. When called off he runs a distance and turns trying to get back to the sheep. But, at the same time he can be soft with a touch of “quit” about him if corrections get tough. A bit of a dichotomy to “blend” those two “issues” together when it comes to training.

He is all forward with very little flank about him. He will take 50 sheep and just drive them straight without flanking. He has so much forward he can split his sheep if not slowed down. However, he has enough feel that he will “rock back” if the sheep do split as he does have a desire to keep sheep together. He doesn’t have a lot of eye or pace … so I will have to work on “holding him back” trying to “install” pace. I won’t have a worry about him not pushing through “the bubble”.

I do love his forward but need to start putting some “sideways” in him. So flanks will be the number one thing I will work on with him. Driving and pushing will come naturally to him.

However, I will intermingle the things he’s good at (forward) with the things he’s not (flanks) to keep his attitude right … while putting “clean flanks” making sure I keep him happy and motivated.

 

 

 

GEAR:

The second one is small, quick, sharp and reactive. He is extremely biddable and tries everything he can stay out of trouble. He simply does not like to be wrong.  When we walk to the sheep he stays close to me waiting for me to send him. When called off he doesn’t run off but stays close to me. He can be sensitive and submissive to correction but luckily he needs very little being such a good listener. An easier combination to work with than the other pup.

He has great flanks, outruns and uncanny feel for sheep. He has plenty of pace and decent push on the fetch. However, he is lacking that forward on the drive. Some of that is lacking confidence “in the task” but some is his “bubble distance”  - he doesn’t like to push through. When he actually pushes past this comfort zone … the tension comes out. So, instead of pushing on steadily he tends to do it in “spurts”. He’s a bit “wound” like a rubber band too tight that breaks and shoots forward.

So, I will put sheep up against the fence and teach him to keep walking closer and closer to his sheep … helping him to stay relaxed and calm while he pushing through his bubble.

I’m going to have to watch myself with him as he is one that excels at “guiding” sheep from a lot further back than I am comfortable with. So, I need to adjust my comfort zone to fit him not the other way around. If I try to MAKE him push on when he truly doesn’t NEED to - I will be taking away one of his most valuable assets. However, he will need to learn “push” as well as “feel” - so I need to “slip” in more forward without losing his distance feel.

The best thing about these pups is they are both very enjoyable to train. This makes you go out of your way to find time for them. It’s harder to train when you don’t enjoy the “clay” you have to work with.

Habit?

No not like the nuns wear --- although those are black and white :@)

Most of my students seem to understand the concept that every dog is different but most don't seem to correlate (even after acknowledging the differences in their dogs) they need to learn to incorporate solutions that include the dog, the problem, the handler, the sheep and the response given to all the above.

So, just what does that mean for you and your dog? Simply ... you need to acquire the ability to "stand back" and REALLY see/hear what you are doing and how your dog is responding. If you and your dogs problem keeps recurring ... then maybe you have created a habit that needs to be broken.

I've read that out of an estimated 11,000 signals we receive from our senses, our brain only consciously processes 40. The rest are accomplished without actually thinking about it or in "other words" ... a lot of actions have developed into a habit. A habit is any action that we have performed so often that it becomes almost an involuntary response. So, if you having "issues" you need to learn to be aware of your actions - so it ceases to be an involuntary act. This will allow you to make a choice instead of just responding every time you perform this action.

Example: at "one point" in my training I was having an issue with dogs not stopping with my down whistle so I started to pay attention to the interaction between myself, my dog and my whistling. The conclusion:  I was whistling ... dog wasn't responding ... so I verbally said lie down. Thereby teaching my dog the whistle was a warning ... but not a command. It was a habit I had adopted from training young dogs before they knew what a whistle was. However, after I had the habit it wasn't long before all my dogs had acquired MY bad habit. They waited until they heard "the word" and weren't responding to the whistle. So, I stopped using the verbal and started walking out to correct them with just the whistle. It had become such a habit I wasn't even aware of it until I made myself ... take a step back and observe myself objectively.

If you are having "issues" try to find out if it's something that has become a habit.  I've seen students say "lie down" (same tone) 3 times and then (and only then) start walking toward the dog YELLING "lie down" and for some "unknown" reason only "then" the dog downs. The dog understands he really doesn't have to  lie down until they yell ... then they wonder why the training session always ends in yelling.

You need to stop, step back and pay attention to you and your dogs interactions. This is what lessons/clinics are good for - someone that's not emotionally involved can help you figure out the WHY ... this hopefully will allow you to get to a solution. Why the dog is reacting as he is ... is first on the agenda and once that is solved  --- then you can work on finding the "ammunition" you need to fix the problem.